Introducing my new machine - a vintage White 1525

I wanted a vintage machine that was a little more sturdy than my Singer Stylist 7258. It makes a noise when I begin to sew a seam and I don't care for it. It seems to work ok but I haven't sewn anything of significance either in almost a year.

I can't find much information on the White. I found the manual online but haven't found anyone who actually is sewing on one. I'm not sure if they are in business any longer but parts seem to be readily available. I can't wait to clean, oil then sew on it!

The progress and perils of buying a vintage machine

I learned to sew on my Mother's vintage machine. I'm unsure exactly which machine it was but it was originally a treadle that my Father put a motor on. It was in perfect condition and worked beautifully. I've always thought I was mechanically inclined and still feel that way. I once rewired a lamp and thought that was  evidence enough.

I think I was wrong!

I love vintage machines. I like the heft of them, the stitches they make, the shape - generally everything about them but buying a vintage machine that is missing bobbins, the bobbin case and needs to be rewired isn't for the faint of heart.

I thought it would be a simple thing to purchase a vintage machine and get it running. This machine is in beautiful condition cosmetically. No rust and it looks to have had barely any use. I had it rewired then cleaned and oiled it myself. (I'm listening to Adele do a concert through YouTube and am losing my train of thought at times. Rumor Has It is playing right now.) I've tried two different bobbins on it. The first was suppose to be a class 15 that I bought at Walmart. One end was too small to fit on the bobbin winder. A friend of my son's offered to let me try her vintage bobbins. They also do not work but I have no idea what size they are. They fit on the spindle but they don't wind. The little arm doesn't fit down into the bobbin and I think I remember it fitting differently - as in fitting down into the top of the bobbin. Sometimes I wish my memory was better!

Do yourself a favor if you buy a vintage machine. Buy your parts from somewhere that specializes in vintage machines. Sew Classic has class 15 bobbins that fit the machine. If I would have purchased some, I would have known for sure that they fit, and that something is wrong with the bobbin winder. As it is, I'm wondering if it is the right bobbin or if the bobbin winder is bad. The little "tire" is worn and in addition, I'm wondering if I oiled the bobbin winder and got oil into something that I wasn't suppose to. Does that make sense?

It should be a simple process to get this machine running but at the moment it doesn't seem simple. Do yourself another favor and buy one that is already restored with all parts and ready to go out of the box. Again, one from Sew Classic would probably fit the bill because I'm a bit frustrated right now.

I think I'm a sewing machine collector not a sewer!

My new Model 99 Singer

In the space of two months I've collected so many sewing machines that I can't even count at the moment. I would guess five but it may be more. I fell in love with vintage machines and had to have vintage Singers that reminded me of my Moms.

First, I bought a Featherweight. That was somewhat of a fiasco. I was buying what I thought was in excellent shape. It came not as described and without some of the accessories pictured. I'm happy with the machine itself but the case leaves something to be desired. It smells and makes the whole machine smell. I repacked it away with potpourri in it hoping to get rid of the smell. We'll see. Still, I love it and am glad I bought it.

Next, I bought a Singer Model 99 and I love it! It's so pretty, all the decals are intact. It does have pin marks on the - flat part, what is that called again? The wiring going to the motor needs to be replaced because it is crumbling but all in all, I'm happy with it.

I also have bought a vintage Kenmore model 117-812 that I thought was so unusual. It looks kinda like a nightmare of a Singer! :) I had previously bought attachments and have no idea what kind of machine they go to but after doing some research, it appears they will fit this machine. What a deal!

I'm presently bidding on a Singer model 201 and that will be it for purchases of vintage machines for me! I have everyone I think I wanted - no wait. How could I forget? I would like a Red Eye Model 66 or perhaps a Spynx. Did I spell that right? That would be my last purchase!

Maybe a monogramer for my vintage machines would be nice. I bought the vintage buttonholer. Yes, I guess you could say I'm a collector now!

Did I stop there? No. I also bought a Viking Platinum Plus and a Singer 7258. I already had a Euro Pro.

Now if I could just keep all these attachments separated and organized, I will be doing well!

Antique vs. Vintage Sewing Machines

Vintage? Collectible? Antique?

Do you really know the difference? Whatever you do, don't rely on eBay or Craigslist for sewing machine valuation if you're just getting interested in older sewing machines. They are helpful to learn about different makes and models and to compare cosmetics. True worth however, is another thing.

You've heard that an item is worth what a market will bear, correct?

Many quilters have preferences in the older machines because of the quality of the stitch and have voiced their opinions on various boards and forums. I can't help but think their opinions, among others have increased the interest in these older machines.

When visiting eBay or Craigslist you'll frequently see a lot of hype in descriptions of these older machines. A machine made in 1940 is described as "antique" when in reality it has an opportunity to become an antique in the future but is simply vintage now.

Say you find Gramma's machine in her garage or attic. You want to find out what it's worth and start browsing the internet to find out what a similiar model is selling for. This is difficult for a number of reasons.

One - it's very difficult to identify a sewing machine model simply by looking at pictures. The machines made after 1920 are similiar in lines with very subtle differences in shape. Singer provides a website that will help identify it if you have the serial number. That shouldn't be hard to find because the serial number is usually on the front, bottom right-hand corner in the majority of machines you'll find now.

The decals on the machines are beautiful but definitely not an identifying feature of the year your model was made. It can ID a span of years but Singer manufactured machines with the same decals for a number of years. Granted, some are more collectible than others but the majority aren't antiques.

An antique is identified by a tariff act in 1930 as anything over 100 years. I tell you this because I don't want you spending your money on a machine that is described in ads as "antique" when it actually isn't. If you have an idea to invest in sewing machines with the purpose of a return on investment - you better know exactly what you're buying.

On the other hand if you're a quilter or vintage pattern sewer who wants to have an older machine to imitate the methods of long ago, whether a machine is actually antique is hardly an issue.

In either case, you'll want to base your purchase on condition. Many machines are sold without attachments, feet or instruction booklets. You'll find numerous listings on eBay or Craigslist for just the head of the machine. Some aren't even usable without a base of some kind because of the mechanisms underneath. Unfortunately, without the machine being complete, your investment has just dropped considerably. Depending on the model number, accessories can be hard to find. This is important because you'll want to actually use it! Hard to do without a shuttle bobbin or instruction booklet that is going to tell you how to thread it. Accessories are available for a price most times but how readily available they are will determine that price!

How to Buy an Older Machine

1. Know why you're buying it. Are you buying it for the investment? To actually sew with it? Or have you become a collector? This will determine the condition of the machine and possibly the model number. 15-91's are favored by quilters. Red Eye model 66's are preferred by some collectors. Don't even talk about Featherweights! Others buy for color, size or manufacturer. Do some research and know what you want before you actually jump in. I say this from experience!

I bought a Featherweight for $460 dollars and a few days later saw this on Craigslist for $200:

A Red Eye Treadle in an antique cabinet.

If I had seen them both at the same time, I would have had a difficult time deciding which to purchase. The Red Eye machine itself is common but that cabinet in that condition isn't. The Featherweight is also common - a dime a dozen. Decisions, decisions, decisions! One day I will have a machine in a cabinet like this not for investment purposes but to actually use. That doesn't mean that I don't want it beautiful.

Another issue I want to address is the condition you'll frequently see on those sites. Many simply leave the machines caked with gunk because they think it will devalue the machine if they clean it up. Faulty thinking. It's a mechanical machine and was meant to be used. This isn't 17th century furniture you're buying! Make sure it's at least clean!

2. Research the model and manufacturer you want according to the purpose. Research the kind of bobbins it uses, the attachments and feet that were included and the cabinet or case that was original. Does it come with the instruction booklet? Most are readily available on the internet through various forums but again - that's depending on the model.

3. Is the machine complete and in working order? If electric, is it in good condition? The older machines weren't grounded. I wouldn't want a live wire attached to cast iron, I'll tell you that. If it's not safe, you'll need to pay to have it rewired or do it yourself.

I recently bought a model 99 Singer that had a light layer of dust over it. To me, that's acceptable but it's another story for the machine to be caked with oil, dirt and who knows what unless it's rare.

4. Is the base included whether in a cabinet or case? What condition is it in? Cabinets and bases in good condition are more rare than a machine in good condition. See above for the issue of some models needing to be in a base due to the mechansim underneath. If your model requires it, make sure it has it or it's more money out of your pocket.

You 'll find some forums that say to choose your machine by the condition of the cabinet. I agree especially if you're buying an antique.

5. Look for machines at thrift stores, rummage sales and estate auctions. You might find it cheaper than on eBay. One of the reasons I decided to write this post is because of the hype and inaccuracy of information there. I was getting frustrated and I'm a beginner at this! I don't want anyone else being taken advantage of or lied to. I had the time to research but there may be those of you that do not.

And if you happen to see a treadle in a cabinet in southeastern Michigan such as the one pictured above - please email me. I'm determined to have one although I'm not sure where to put it!

Thanks and remember, I'm completely new at this. If there are any inaccuracies, please post in the comments below and I'll update the information. This is just my opinion as a new collector repeating things I've learned.

My New Obsession - Featherweights!

A white/green/turquoise Featherweight

While I was researching a new machine on Pattern Review I came across a post entitled "Calling All Singer Owners" and started reading all 113 (as of this writing) pages. What originally started out as a post encouraging the purchase of new or slightly used Singers has turned into a thread about vintage machines.

As I was trying to date/model the machine I learned to sew on (a 15-30) I came across the Featherweights. Wow, how cute! As I want to do some quilting, I was instantly drawn to them because of the reputation of the stitch on older machines. This post is going to be a reminder of things I've learned about them. You can expect information and links as time passes such as the price to pay, the attachments included with the original purchase and restoring links. I'll post what I've learned but please keep in mind that I'm not an expert and have only recently discovered the little beauties!

The White Featherweight

This Featherweight was manufactured in Scotland and some were exported to Canada for voltage conversions to 112 volt. When looking to purchase for use in the US it's important to check the wiring on them. I don't want to use a voltage converter.

The correct color was described as turquoise by Singer but it appears white with a very pale green tint. The green isn't usually noticeable until you hold a piece of white paper against it.

The Featherweights don't have decals which made other vintage Singers so beautiful. What is most interesting in this machine is it's size, portability and quality of stitch.

Setting Up a Sewing Area on a Budget

My sewing area needs to be set up on a budget and I've modified my plans to buy an expensive machine. I can have a fully functional sewing area without spending thousands or even hundreds of dollars. I'll need the same basic elements as mentioned in my last post but there are places I can save money.

The Machine

I've researched budget machines and found the Singer Stylist 7258 has good reviews on Amazon.com and Pattern Review. It has won awards and for around $200 you can't beat it! It has 100 built in stitches, a top drop-in bobbin, adjustable stitch width and length, automatic needle threader and comes with 10 presser feet. It makes 6 automatic buttonholes (out of the stated 100) that I'm sure would cover my needs.

Furthermore, it's only $188.00 at my local Meijers department store, the attachments, needles and bobbins are readily available and did I mention that it's inexpensive? Fits right into my budget and I won't have a heart attack bringing it home because I spent so much!

A Serger

Again, I've looked all over the internet for cheap sergers that would do what I want them to. I found good reviews on the Brother 1034D lay-in thread serger. It's $199.00 from Amazon.com and again, fits in my budget. No heart attack there either.

I expect to have a big learning curve with the serger since I've never had or used one but it comes with an instructional DVD and I've read that it's very helpful.

I could explain the stitches it does, the feet it comes with and describe how easy it is to thread but I wouldn't know what I was talking about. I'm simply choosing from advice received from Pattern Review on the boards, and from the reviews on Amazon.com. I simply want to sew knit fabrics without difficulty nor do I want to be limited when choosing patterns because I don't have the right equipment. I'll post more information after I've learned to use it!

The Sewing Desk or Table

I spent as much time researching sewing tables and workspaces as I have on the machines. For those of us who are older, being comfortable while sewing is important. We don't have the stamina for pain or fatigue that we did when younger.

I love the Scrapbox and Koala sewing desks but unfortunately, the price puts them far out of line for me. I researched the cost of other sewing cabinets, desks and tables and found that nothing was going to work for me. My sewing area will be a part of my bedroom and very small. Some of the cabinets I saw would take up my whole bedroom! Not an option in my small 600 sq. ft. apartment.

What I found was the VIKA Annefors table legs from IKea. Each costs $40 and I would need two. They are open shelves that you put on each end of the table top. I would prefer closed storage but it isn't in the budget at the moment and this option will give a nice look at an affordable price. Add the table top for $25 and I have a sturdy sewing desk. Another option would be to use the VIKA Alex drawer unit on the other side and it would be more convenient storage. It's $79.99 and might require more thought before I actually purchase it. The height of these are 27 1/2" which is the right size for me when you add the width of the table top. Unlike some of the other options, I've not heard of the table being flimsy or bouncing when sewing - that would drive me nuts!

Those three options will get me through setting up a workable sewing area. By the way, I found a great article about sewing ergonomics at OSHA. It's talking of professional spaces but who wouldn't want to be as comfortable while sewing? The measurements are the same no matter if we are professionals or hobbists!

Next post will be about decorating the sewing area - my favorite part!