Saturday, December 21, 2013

Simplicity Amazing Fit 2860

I've used Sarah Veblen's book and Pants for Real People to get an idea on fitting. I've read various blogs and there's nothing to do now except for layout the pattern and cut the fabric!

I'm scared! I hate cutting into fabric!

I want to develop a pants TNT. Perhaps a few. I've resigned myself to the idea I'll have to do numerous muslins. It seems like such a waste to me but I can't figure out a way around it. I know I'll have fitting issues!

I've measured my body in places I've never considered  before! LOL Waist, high hip, hip, crotch depth, crotch length, thigh and knee. Whew! I've measured the pattern pieces to determine where to cut. I've shortened the length.

I prefer a contour waist and this pattern has it. It also has larger legs than what appears on the front. The fabric I'm using as a muslin would have been nice fabric but the folds do not come out in the wash. The fold is permanently set. I hope it will work as a fitting muslin and that I won't be confused by the folds and ripples in the fabric! :)

The pattern also has a fly front that I want to master. It happens to be the first thing to do! I think I'll take pictures of that to have for reference later.

Edited to add: There's not as much of that fabric as I thought! Looks like I'll have to use linen.

Wednesday, December 4, 2013

Child's Play Tent M5827

M5827
My pants sewing is put on hold because my daughter in law wants this for the kids. I don't blame her, it's adorable, isn't it?

It takes a lot of yardage. I found a sheet to yardage calculator at Sew Much Ado. Thank you Abby!

I'll be sure to write a review when I've finished it!

Velvet Holiday Stocking

My neighbor asked me to copy this stocking and I said of course I will! Little did I know what I was getting into!

There are four layers including the lining. It was necessary to give quite a bit of thought to putting this together! My seam ripper came in handy to say the least.

She has quite a bundle of fun stuff that she's going to put on the outside. Sewing it was fun!

Sunday, December 1, 2013

Christine Jonson's Black Friday Sale

I was finally able to order cjpatterns.com Travel Trio collection. Her patterns were 40% off last Friday and the three Travel Trio's are on their way! Travel Trio One was finally back in stock and I can't wait to get them!





Monday, November 25, 2013

Fly Zipper Insertion Help

Word has it that Sandra Betzina's fly zipper tutorial is the bomb. I have the directions in her book and use those but I thought a video might help clarify things. Her video on Threads.

Here is a video by Fashion Sewing Blog on the fly zipper. It is a very good video that is easy to follow:



Here are a few other illustrations or tutorials:

Oliver and S fly front instructions.

Power Sewing Step-by-Step by Sandra Betzina, page 62.

Pants for Real People, Palmer and Alto, page 106.

Making Perfect Pants from New Mexico State University has a nice little chart with body measurements, ease, pattern measurements and the difference. Nice little way to come up with the amounts to alter.



Sewing and Fitting Pants for TNT Part 1

I said in my last post that I would begin with Simplicity 2860 Amazing Fit pants pattern but after looking at it and comparing it to my favorite RTW, I decided not to. The legs on this pattern are so big that it more closely resembles palazzo pants. The picture on the front is misleading. I couldn't believe how big the legs are. I don't want to cut the legs down and fight with fitting a pattern!

I looked at all my pants patterns and compared the legs to the size I prefer. I've decided on Vogue 1294 by Anne Klein. I like the curves and shape better. I have ironed the tissue. I don't feel the need to walk the pattern since it has been made by Chesneycat at roomforsewing.com. Her blog post helped me to decide on this pattern. It has the leg shape I want and I get the impression it's pretty easy. I would also like to make the blouse eventually but I don't have a suitable fabric at the moment.

I've walked my favorite pair of RTW pants on two patterns now and I come up with a size 16 and even that is a little big. I'm still going to sew a size 18 to make sure.

My muslin fabric is a synthetic sueded stone colored fabric with a little lycra. I've prewashed it twice and the fold creases do not come out. Hopefully I can work around them and not be confused when fitting.

Another thing I want to point you to is the inside of these pants by cationdesigns.com. They are beautiful and I want to finish my pants like that. I wonder what she uses? I'll revise this post when I find a few links.

That's all for tonight folks! I cut the pieces to the pattern, organized it and put the iron to it.

Sunday, November 3, 2013

So Excited! I've found favorite silhouettes and ordered patterns! Or dressing for my life and body now.

This might be a long post. I'll understand if you'd like to skip it but I am very excited. I've joined Club BMV and have ordered a few patterns from Vogue and McCall's. I've often wished I was a member when I've received the email's describing savings on patterns. Well, wish no longer because I'll be able to take advantage of those sales!

It seems my preferences have changed in the last few months. I now prefer elastic waists. I use to absolutely live in jeans but now I want soft knits against my skin. I want a waistband that will shrink when I do or expand a little bit over the holidays. I like ankle length skirts, pants that are neither too wide or too skinny. I like waterfall sweaters along with other cardigans and a vest would be good with T-shirts.

I've also come to realize that I can't wear heels any more. I'm talking even the low heels. I'm going to look for flats that are stylish but comfortable. Good luck with that, huh?

My life style is casual and the clothes I prefer are almost pajama style! I change into jeans when I go out but as soon as I'm home, I put my very comfortable knit lounge pants back on and let out a contented, "ahhhhh" in the process!

So, I need to dress for the lifestyle and body I have now. I want to be comfortable but put together and stylish, ya know?

I thought I would embellish the simple shapes in a few pieces anyway starting with a tank top. A la Alabama Chanin. That'll be a good project for these long winter days, don't you think? I might try embroidery on other pieces. I'll make them mine in some way. Stay tuned for those thoughts!

The Patterns

I bought these three vintage patterns off eBay:



These patterns represent how I prefer to dress when I can find the silhouettes. I'll now have them and they are timeless enough to last for a long time.

I also bought a few from Vogue and McCalls that I've always wanted:

I  plan to sew these to wear for my Grandkid's games. 

I bought this in two sizes because I love the dress. Maybe a granddaughter will want one.

Another view of the game top and jacket.

another view in case you missed it. 

I love the sleeves on this dress. Nice to wear to church.

and my vest that I will wear as a third piece.
When you add Simplicity 1945, I have the silhouettes I prefer.
There is still one more look that I want.

I now have the skirt pattern. I want a top that is very loose for fat days! :)


Thanks. Now I can use this post to do a little planning. Have a great day!

Saturday, November 2, 2013

Finally found a pattern for my linen!

I've been looking for just the right pattern for linen that I acquired about a year ago. I have limited shapes of clothes that I feel look good on me. It's taken some time to find something that meets all my requirements.

This was found on ebay and I snapped it up. It should be here shortly.

I've already prewashed my fabric once but I'm going to wash it a few more times. I hear the wrinkles lessen the more you wash linen. Hope that's true!


I also have this cotton jersey that has a delicious hand. I love the fabric if it could be used for something other than clothing. :) It's a little loud for my tastes!


This would make a good beginning for SWAP  2014.

Friday, November 1, 2013

SWAP 2014 - Simplicity 1945

I love the cardigan and tops in this pattern.. I don't care for the wide legged pants but I could substitute another pattern for them.


This pattern would take care of a few of the 3-paks and I already own the pattern. It has good reviews on pattern review. My favorite cardigans are shaped like this. One of the sewists on PR said it has just enough fabric and isn't overwhelming. I really like waterfall cardigans but they can be overwhelming given enough volume. What I do not need is more volume! :)

Pants Patterns

I'm doing Simplicity's Amazing Fit  pattern right now but I'm unsure that I'll like the width of the legs. I do like Style Arc's Kerry Cargo Pants:



Or her Yoga Pants:

I really like those. They are shapely without being overwhelming. I like a little flare at the bottom. I would still be wearing bell bottoms if I could get away with it. Some of my jeans are mighty close! :) I hate to think what my size would be given my waist and hip measurement. Her freeby this month is the Lola pant:

I have cargo/capri's that I wear in the summer that are shaped like this. They are very comfortable.

Decisions, decisions, decisions!

Thursday, October 31, 2013

Swap 2014 Rules

Stitcher's Guild has been going down for a little bit each day. The SWAP rules for 2014 were posted yesterday. It's very interesting this year.

We'll be following Blue Mooney's "Algebra SWAP" formula:
3 "3 packs" + 2 "wild cards" = 11 garments. 
Each three pack will be:
2 tops + 1 bottom or1 top + 1 bottom + 1 outer layer or 1 dress + 1 top + 1 bottom
The "wild card" options can be just about anything you like, but they must be "garments" not accessories (hats, bags, blankets, etc.)
This sounds like Christine Jonson's Travel Trio's would work really well for this swap. My only concern is what they would look like on this somewhat chubby figure.

Travel Trio 1



Travel Trio Two


Travel Trio Three:



All patterns from cjpatterns.com
I can see myself in some of these but I would need more pants rather than skirts. I do love the wrap skirt. I would love to make the wrap skirt and jacket reversible. That would add to the mix!

cjpatterns.com also has a nice color of rayon/lycra named merlot: 

Love this color!
And this color:


It is different than any neutral scheme I've considered before. I usually go with black but I'm ready for something different. 


Next: Fitting Simplicity 2860 Amazing Fit Pants Pattern

This pattern only received one negative review on Pattern Review. Some others were surprised at the width of the legs. They are wider than they appear on the pattern front according to the pictures I saw of the reviews. I bought this pattern because the legs weren't so wide. I can see I'll have to cut down a size or two in the legs to get the shape I like.
They do not appear wide legged, do they? Misleading.

This pattern has you measure your waist, hips, crotch length and back crotch length. The pattern back has slim, average and curvy back pieces. It's no surprise that I need the curvy. I almost have a shelf butt and I'll have to do a sway back adjustment. Good thing I have Pants for Real People as a fitting aid! I do hear this pattern has wonderful fitting directions though.

I had an idea of the size I would need but I am shocked. Intellectually I know sewing patterns are sized differently than RTW but still. Six months ago I wore clothes in the single digits. Not any longer. It's enough to make me want to diet however, I don't want to wait to have well fitting clothes. After all, being in the single digits again may not happen.

Stay tuned...

Introducing my new machine - a vintage White 1525





I wanted a vintage machine that was a little more sturdy than my Singer Stylist 7258. It makes a noise when I begin to sew a seam and I don't care for it. It seems to work ok but I haven't sewn anything of significance either in almost a year.

I can't find much information on the White. I found the manual online but haven't found anyone who actually is sewing on one. I'm not sure if they are in business any longer but parts seem to be readily available. I can't wait to clean, oil then sew on it!

Sunday, October 27, 2013

Sewing patterns for my kind of casual wear

I've never checked out this pattern but I instantly fell in love with it! I'm at my grandchildren's games frequently and these would be a welcome addition to my wardrobe: M6614


and the illustrations:


I could see the top as a dressy version with the right fabric choice. This pattern is versatile and could be used for a variety of tops.

M4261 would be versatile for casual wear as well. I can see pajamas made out of this and the bottoms made out of fleece, linen, and a variety of knits. 



Introducing my new apple body shape!

I've graduated from a rectangle to an apple body shape. I hope it's temporary but in the meantime, I have to learn how to dress it. I hope to shorten my learning curve while sewing if I do a little research now. What will look good on me now that I'm rounder in the middle? How I wish for the 8 shape I once was! Those days are long over and the sooner I accept it, the better.

I have a few basic ideas. I've always liked dressing in threes: bottom, underlayer and overlayer. Now I feel it's essential for not only my body type but also for the season we're coming into. It'll soon be winter in this hemisphere. I want to be warm but also to cover this tummy! No, I am not pregnant. Just temporarily rounder in the belly than I should be!

It's essential that I sew a few clothes as I have few that fit me. I need casual clothes to run errands in, clothes to wear to church and clothes to lounge in. Sounds like three different wardrobes. Maybe I can combine the two, skirts for church and pants for errands with the same top layers for both. Sounds like the beginning of a plan.

Overlayers

V8777 offers an up to date version of a vest that I could see myself wearing. That's one overlayer!

I would lengthen this vest to hit me at the bottom of my stomach. I suspect it might be an inch or so too short which means it would accent my round shape. I especially like the embellished dark grey version.

Overlayer #2 that I'm considering is this waterfall cardi by Vogue. It resembles my favorite cardi that I wear every day around the house.

I wear it fastened with a scarf pin and not belted. Belted wouldn't be a good look for me.

While V8804 is not particularly suited for an apple shape, I think it could be made to work. I've worn a Chanel type jacket before with "okay" results and besides, I just want to make my own.

I'm not sure about those pockets but I figure I can always take them off if they don't work!

Underlayers

For a basic blouse, I don't think I can beat V8747. I have a blouse similiar that I actually wear but I wear more knit tops than I do actual blouses. I think however, this one will look fantastic with the vest above.



I own a few Style Arc patterns:

The Ann T Top and:

The Adele Top.

As I look back over these, most would require careful fitting for an apple shape. I'll let you know how that goes!