Fly Zipper Insertion Help

Word has it that Sandra Betzina's fly zipper tutorial is the bomb. I have the directions in her book and use those but I thought a video might help clarify things. Her video on Threads.

Here is a video by Fashion Sewing Blog on the fly zipper. It is a very good video that is easy to follow:

Here are a few other illustrations or tutorials:

Oliver and S fly front instructions.

Power Sewing Step-by-Step by Sandra Betzina, page 62.

Pants for Real People, Palmer and Alto, page 106.

Making Perfect Pants from New Mexico State University has a nice little chart with body measurements, ease, pattern measurements and the difference. Nice little way to come up with the amounts to alter.

Sewing and Fitting Pants for TNT Part 1

I said in my last post that I would begin with Simplicity 2860 Amazing Fit pants pattern but after looking at it and comparing it to my favorite RTW, I decided not to. The legs on this pattern are so big that it more closely resembles palazzo pants. The picture on the front is misleading. I couldn't believe how big the legs are. I don't want to cut the legs down and fight with fitting a pattern!

I looked at all my pants patterns and compared the legs to the size I prefer. I've decided on Vogue 1294 by Anne Klein. I like the curves and shape better. I have ironed the tissue. I don't feel the need to walk the pattern since it has been made by Chesneycat at roomforsewing.com. Her blog post helped me to decide on this pattern. It has the leg shape I want and I get the impression it's pretty easy. I would also like to make the blouse eventually but I don't have a suitable fabric at the moment.

I've walked my favorite pair of RTW pants on two patterns now and I come up with a size 16 and even that is a little big. I'm still going to sew a size 18 to make sure.

My muslin fabric is a synthetic sueded stone colored fabric with a little lycra. I've prewashed it twice and the fold creases do not come out. Hopefully I can work around them and not be confused when fitting.

Another thing I want to point you to is the inside of these pants by cationdesigns.com. They are beautiful and I want to finish my pants like that. I wonder what she uses? I'll revise this post when I find a few links.

That's all for tonight folks! I cut the pieces to the pattern, organized it and put the iron to it.

Next: Fitting Simplicity 2860 Amazing Fit Pants Pattern

This pattern only received one negative review on Pattern Review. Some others were surprised at the width of the legs. They are wider than they appear on the pattern front according to the pictures I saw of the reviews. I bought this pattern because the legs weren't so wide. I can see I'll have to cut down a size or two in the legs to get the shape I like.

They do not appear wide legged, do they? Misleading.

This pattern has you measure your waist, hips, crotch length and back crotch length. The pattern back has slim, average and curvy back pieces. It's no surprise that I need the curvy. I almost have a shelf butt and I'll have to do a sway back adjustment. Good thing I have Pants for Real People as a fitting aid! I do hear this pattern has wonderful fitting directions though.

I had an idea of the size I would need but I am shocked. Intellectually I know sewing patterns are sized differently than RTW but still. Six months ago I wore clothes in the single digits. Not any longer. It's enough to make me want to diet however, I don't want to wait to have well fitting clothes. After all, being in the single digits again may not happen.

Stay tuned...

Notes for Sewing One of Your First Garments

I've attempted to sew Pamela's Magic Pencil Skirt, Style Arc's Ann T Top and drafted a pattern from my favorite RTW pajamas. Guess which one fit without alterations?

That's right - the self drafted pattern.

The other two were works in progress or wadders. However you look at it, there are a few things I could have done to assure success. I thought others who are just beginning to sew for themselves might like to learn from my mistakes!

This is an on going process and I will have success eventually but I could have saved myself a lot of trouble if I had done a few things first.

1. I should have done more in depth tissue fitting before sewing the skirt and tee. A quick once over and thinking, "oh, that looks close" isn't enough! :)
2. Comparing them to RTW I have in my closet would have given me a base to work off of.  
3. It would have also helped if I had sewn the skirt with a zig-zag instead of the stretch (lll) stitch. That is going to be a bugger to rip and this isn't the final altered pattern.

I found I needed a reference because it had been so long since I had fit or sewn a pattern. I couldn't remember the sequence for trialing a pattern. Instead, I just sat at the sewing machine and went at it! LOL To be honest, I just wanted to sew something but in retrospect, that may not have been the right method to my madness!

The Style Arc top is drafted beautifully. All seams went together smoothly and if you've ever sewn with the Big 4 - you know that's not always the case. I love the pattern but there isn't enough ease for my tastes. It's skin tight and I like my tee's to be loose.

I have Sandra Betzina's Fast Fit and I should have looked at it before beginning to sew. Unfortunately, I can't just begin where I left off fifteen years ago because I've forgotten so much!

Her suggestions:

1. Take flat pattern measurements.
2. Do closet comparisons.
3. Analyze how my favorites measure up.
4. Do a simplified fitting shell if using the Big 4. (Simplified is my term and idea - it's not necessary to do the whole shell for my needs. For a simple tee, it's enough to do the shoulders, neckline, bust, waist and hip.)
5. Make a pretest - aka muslin.

I think that might cut down on my attempts to fit a pattern! Duh! 

Have a great day!